Theo Wright : Handwoven
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No Colour No Contrast - threadings and lifts


Prototype design
Starting points
​

The weaving technique I'm going to be using is called Moiré - its the same one I used for the When Waves Collide project (see here for notes on the technique).

Threading: each design uses two interleaved threading sequences.

Lifts: I expect the lifting sequence in each piece to follow the threading sequence (this is sometimes known as "tromp as writ").

I use a 16-shaft dobby loom. So for each design there will be two 16-shaft sequences interleaved in the warp threading and again in the lift sequences.


My initial thinking is to use two sequences that contrast in some way: one might be curved and the other straight/angular; they might be at different scales; or they might have different repeat lengths.

​Here's my initial set of sequences:

Point/zig-zag  (30-end repeat)
Straight line (16-end repeat using the first half only):
Picture

Sine wave (60-end repeat)
Rising wave (30-end repeat using the first half only)

Falling wave (30-end repeat using the last half only)
Picture

Arc (38-end repeat)
Rising arc (19-end repeat using the first half only)

Falling arc (19-end repeat using the last half only)
Picture

Trough (38-end repeat)
Falling trough (19-end repeat using the first half only)

Rising trough (19-end repeat using the last half only)
Picture

Arc/Trough combination (38-end repeat)
Picture

​Stretching

Any of the lines above can be stretched to double or triple the width. Here the straight threading has been doubled. I will create some designs that combine one stretched line with one unstretched. The original yellow and blue prototype shown at the top of the page uses a stretched sine wave and an unstretched point threading

Picture

Progression

One of my initial prototype designs used a progressive sequence for one of the threading lines. I'm not sure whether I will use these in the final project or not. The gradual changes create very long repeats which can be interesting in a larger textile but don't really come across in a small sample.

This type of technique could be useful to force variation in two sequences that would otherwise have the same short repeat. The examples below each show the first two parts of some sort of progressive sequence.

Progressive straight threading (128-end repeat)
Picture

Progressive point threading (224-end repeat)
Picture

Progressive rising wave (240-end repeat)
Picture

Progressive rising wave (192-end repeat)
Picture

Progressive sine wave (384-end repeat)
Picture

Progressive (traveling) sine wave (600-end repeat)
Picture

Tie-up

Because there are already so many possible variations in the designs that could be created using these threadings/lifts I'm not planning to try out lots of different tie-ups. 

My intention is to use the following two (both of which I've used before): A (left) and B (right).
Picture
Picture

Previous - Thinking about colour

Next - Creating designs using CAD


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